To determine where the problem is, visually inspect each speaker and subwoofer in your system.Ī blown speaker could be the cause of the problem. If the light turns off, the problem probably lies in one of the speakers. Then, look at individual components.įirst, unplug the speaker wires. If your amp's "protect" light is on, chances are you have a faulty speaker, subwoofer, cable, or another component. Some amplifiers go into amplifier protect mode to avoid further damage to internal components. If the amp has good power and ground, the remote wire has voltage when the head unit is turned on, and no fuses are blown, then you're probably dealing with a busted amplifier. If the ground connection is poor or isn't connected at all, the amp might fail to turn on or not work very well. If the remote and power wires both check out OK, the next thing to look for is continuity on the ground wire. If it doesn't, check for any inline fuses and verify that the wire isn't loose, corroded, or shorted out somewhere. This wire is thicker than the remote wire, and it should have battery voltage. The power wire is the next thing to check if you find no problems with the remote wire. In this situation, the amp typically will turn on only when the head unit audio input is set to AM or FM radio. If the amp is wired incorrectly, and the remote turn-on is connected instead to the power antenna wire on the head unit, the amp might power on only sometimes. So if there is no power at the remote terminal on the amplifier, the next step is to check for power at the corresponding wire where it connects to the radio. The remote turn-on wire usually comes from the radio, in which case the amplifier won't turn on if the radio isn't on. The remote wire acts like your finger flicking a switch, where your finger is battery power, and the switch is a mechanism inside the amplifier. If the remote turn-on wire doesn't have power, your amp won't turn on. To turn on, the amp needs power at both the remote and power wires, in addition to a good ground.
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